One day in the summer of 2016, I was getting ready for a routine surf in Guernsey Channel Islands, when I overheard my surf coach explaining to the other children that it was the greatest swell he had ever seen! Straight after he said those words, I was instantly ecstatic! I rushed out to the waves and the excitement kept growing!

It was a perfect day, the sky was blue: not a cloud in the sky. The waves were huge and there was no seaweed to be seen! I was eager to get in the water and I paddled out for what seemed to be an eternity. Then I saw it. The wave of my lifetime: breaking beautifully and creating a barrel! I was staggered by how big the wave was. I knew I had to ride it! I paddled ferociously, kicking the water with all my strength. Just in time to catch the crest before it broke. I stood up, right as it was about to break! The instant rush of both speed and adrenaline hit me. I rode it for five seconds, enjoying every moment. When I finally jumped off, my face was beaming with joy. Up until that point I did not know how beautiful and extraordinary nature could truly be! I knew from then on that I needed to be grateful for every second I had out there.